Friday, March 27, 2009
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Other famous brocade：Nanjing Yun brocade， Chengdu Shu brocade， Suzhou Song brocade
Song brocade began to be produced in Suzhou during Tang Dynasty. During Five Dynasties, the Suzhou Song brocade became even more splendid. Later, there appeared more than 40 styles of the Song brocade mainly for the purpose of mounting paintings. Song brocade is woven by organizing slant silk threads in a cycle of two warps and three wefts. Song brocade falls under the categories of Big Brocade, Small Brocade and Box Brocade. Big Brocade is used to decorate valuable artistic ornaments, and Small Brocade is used to decorate small craftworks and mount pictures.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Dobby looms allow a huge variety of weave structures which a treadle loom might not, due to the lack of treadles. A floorloom is limited in the amount of treadles it can use within the loom frame, but a dobby need only add bars to the dobby chain to enlarge the loom's weave capacity. A normal eight harness floorloom has ten or twelve treadles but a dobby device mounted on the same loom will use a chain of bars ranging from twelve to seventy. The average dobby chain will have approximately fifty bars.
A Jacquard loom is an example of an adaptation from a dobby loom. A Jacquard device mounted atop a loom will lift the individual heddles and warp threads. The individual heddles and warp threads can be controlled by a computer or a series of punched cards which select them to rise or fall. Power is usually supplied to the loom to move the many heddles involved.
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Nanjing Yunjin refers to the incredibly beautiful brocade made in Nanjing, capital city of eastern Jiangsu Province .Among all ancient fabrics, silk cloth known as jin represents the industry's top arts and crafts. Furthermore, Nanjing brocade has absorbed all the best silk-fabrics-weaving crafts and skills of past dynasties and ranks first in quality among the Chengdu brocade in southwestern Sichuan Province, Song brocade in Jiangsu Province, and Zhuang brocade in southwestern Guangxi Province. With the rich cultural and scientific meaning it carries, the Nanjing brocade is honored by experts as "the last milestone in the technological history of Chinese silk fabrics".
Nanjing Yunjin（Brocade）has a history of over 1500 years with regard to the hand-weaving technology. Its wooden-loom Zhuang Hua（also named da hua lou ji） represents the history of silk weaving lasting for over 4700years. This is the traditional hand-weaving technology by means of human memory that cannot be replaced by machines, the only technology of its kind handed down to the modern times in a history of over 3000years concerning brocade.
Thursday, March 19, 2009
"The Chachi (or Cayapas) people live in the rain forests of northern Ecuador on the western slopes of the Andes mountains. This traditional vertical loom was on display at the interpretive center at Lago Cuicocha. Vertical looms were the means of weaving cloth on the Pacific coast of Ecuador, and were still in use in the 1980's on Isla Puna in the Gulf of Guayaquil."
It looks like the weaving in progress was going to be a shoulder bag, but I'm certain that this type of loom is also used to weave wrap skirts. Traditionally, Chachi women went topless and wore only knee length wrap skirts.
Acrylic - It is used as a substitute for wool. It is durable, soft, and has a wooly feel. It is resistant to sun and chemicals.
Broadcloth - Closely woven and wears very well but wrinkles very badly. It is used as shirts, dresses, blouses, summer wear.
Brocade - Usually made fit for eveningwear, church vestments, interior furnishings, and robes. It has rich, heavy, elaborate design effect.
Challis - It is soft, very lightweight and is washable. It is used as women's and children's dresses, kimonos, neckties and sportswear.
Chambray - It is smooth, strong, closely woven and soft. Used as children's wear, dresses, shirts and blouses, aprons and all kinds of sportswear.
Chiffon - Used as eveningwear, blouses and scarves. It is lightweight, sheer, transparent and very fine.
Cotton - It is very elastic and withstand high temperatures. It has high washability and dyes well. It is comfortable in all weather. It is used as all types of clothing.
Crepe - All types of dresses finds a fit place like from long dinner dresses to suits and coats. It has a crinkled and puckered surface with a soft mossy finish. It has rough feel and appearance.
Damask - It is very durable, made from silk in actual. It sheds dirt, launders well and holds high luster, especially in linen.
Denim - Used as pants, caps, uniforms, bedspreads, slipcovers, draperies, upholstery, sportswear. It resists snags and tears. It comes in heavy to lighter weights.
Drill - A cotton fabric used for uniforms, work cloths, and sportswear.
Faille - It has a lustrous finish. Used as dresses, blouses, and some dressy coats.
Flannel - Used as blazers, dresses, skirts, suits and coats. It is soft with a napped surface. It shrinks if not pre-shrunk. It sags with wear.
Flax - It is of linen with a high absorbent quality, allowing moisture to evaporate quickly. It is easily washable but has a poor elasticity.
Gabardine - Used as men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts. It has a clear finish. It is durable and wears extremely well.
Georgette - It is crisp with an outstanding durability. It is sheer and has a dull face.
Houndstooth - Sportscoats and suits are made out of it. It is usually of wool.
Moire - It is made of silk, rayon or cotton and has a watermarked finish. It is used as eveningwear, formals, dresses and coats.
Nylon - It is used as women's hosiery, knitted or woven lingerie, socks and sweaters. It is elastic, easy to wash and is lustrous.
Organdy - It is used as summer formals, blouses and aprons. It is a tightly twisted yarn with a crisp.
Organza - Used as evening dresses. It is fine, sheer, lightweight and crisp.
Oxford - Mostly used for men's shirts. It is made of cotton and sometimes even of rayon.
Polyester - It is smooth, crisp and springy. It is readily washable and is not damaged by sunlight. It is made for all weather and is resistant to moths and mildew.
Pongee - It is made of silk, cotton, or rayon and used for dresses, blouses and summer suits. It is lightweight.
Rayon - It is a cellulose fiber based fabric and is highly absorbent. It drapes well and is resistant to moths, bleaches and chemicals.
Silk - It is very strong and absorbant. It has a brillient sheen and unique softness.
Monday, March 16, 2009
Other types of lace: Needle lace , Whitework , Bobbin Lace , Tape lace
Other types of lace: Needle lace , Whitework , Bobbin Lace , Crocheted lace
Other types of lace: Needle lace , Whitework , Tape lace, Crocheted lace
Other types of lace: Needle lace , Bobbin Lace , Tape lace, Crocheted lace
Other types of lace: Whitework , Bobbin Lace , Tape lace , Crocheted lace
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
The popularity of handmade laces led to the invention of lace-making machines. The first machine lace appeared in the late 1700's. It developed from a machine that made fancy knitted stockings. This early version of netting was made in England by Hammond. Others improved on this looped lace and it became very popular as a base to embellish with needle run designs and allowed resurgence in the demand for this more affordable lace.
Updating and changes continued for years until an new machine was produced in that was more like lace in that it wove netting that closely resembled the twisted netting of handmade Lille bobbin lace. As a boy, John Heathcoat made stockings and became familiar with the machines and used this knowledge to develop and patent his lace net machine in 1808. This invention created an enormous lace industry. At first, the netting was embroidered with a needle or tambour chain stitch. Limerick Ireland became famous for it's exquisite embroidery of this twisted net. Carrickmacross Ireland created their own lace by appliquéing a fine muslin on the net. They also sometimes added embroidery as well.
The next important step in the evolution in machine lacemaking came about with the invention of the Pusher machine. This was the first development that was capable of putting a pattern in the lace with the machine. This pattern was then outlined with a raised thread called a gimp. The gimp was applied by hand and sometimes the handrun gimp was the only way to tell the difference between the real 'Chantilly' lace and this very good imitation.
Shortly after Heathcoat patented his machine, John Leaver developed his 'Leaver' machine which, by 1805, had been modified with the system invented by Joseph Jacquard and now was able to make lace entirely by machine. By 1841, the last great development was added which allowed the machine to also incorporate the gimp. Once this was accomplished, the use of lace machines developed so quickly that the market was soon flooded with this new inexpensive lace.
Lace-making is an ancient craft. True lace was not made until the late 15th and early 16th centuries. A true lace is created when a thread is looped, twisted or braided to other threads independently from a backing fabric.
Originally linen, silk, gold, or silver threads were used. Now lace is often made with cotton thread. Manufactured lace may be made of synthetic fiber. A few modern artists make lace with a fine copper or silver wire instead of thread.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Monday, March 9, 2009
The first thing to make this kind of Felted knit mushroom is knitting.The following is the Mushroom pattern.
Size: 2.75" in diameter by 1.5" tall
Yardage: 14 yds
Shown In: Paton's Classic Wool in Chestnut and Bright Red. Spots on red cap were needle felted after fulling using Cascade 220 #8010.
CO 33 sts, join for working in the round.
Round 1-2: knit
Round 3: (k2tog, k9) to end
Round 4: knit
Round 5: (k2tog, k8) to end
Round 6: knit
Round 7: (k2tog, k7) to end
Round 8: knit
Round 9: (k2tog, k6) to end
Round 10: knit
Round 11: (k2tog, k5) to end
Round 12: knit
Round 13: (k2tog, k4) to end
Round 14: knit
Break yarn and thread tail through remaining stitches, pull to inside of cap and weave in end.
After knitting, you should felt the mushroom, follow the steps in the How to Make a Needle-Felted Pillows to felt.
2. Remove sleeves and/or collar at seams and cut open body of sweater to create large flat pieces.
3. Trace and cut out front and back of pillow, adding 1/2" seam allowances all around.
4. Place pillow front onto foam slab and pin in place with quilting pins.
5. Arrange roving or yarn on pillow front in desired pattern, keeping in mind that areas of color will appear smaller once they are felted to the surface.
6. Hold felting needle vertical to fabric surface and pierce repeatedly to attach roving to pillow front.Repeat as necessary until desired effect is obtained. Colors may be added and layered over previous layers if desired to create texture and more complex designs.
7. When design is complete, arrange pillow front and pillow back with right sides facing and sew together, leaving an opening for turning. Turn right side out.
8. Fill with pillow form or polyester fiberfill. Sew closed by hand.
9. As a finishing touch, apply wool roving or yarn around seam using same felting technique.
Sunday, March 8, 2009
Commercial felting is the proccess used to create sheets of felt sold at craft and fabric stores. While these are different than the felting projects you can make at home, if you look closely at these sheets, you can see all the fibers used to form the fabric.
Needle (or punch) felting is a process originally developed for making industrial felt. Large beds of steel needles are moved in and out of the loose fiber to create large sheets of felt. The felt needle has rough, notched edges that force the fiber down causing it to entangle with other fibers and create felt.
Wet felting is what this tutorial will focus on. With wet felting, you can create a soft, dense cloth using wool. The process uses heat, agitation, and moisture to shrink and bond the fibers of the wool together. Don't let this description scare you away from trying wet felting, all you need is some yarn and a washing machine really!
Primarily there are two kinds of braids :
Round braids have a round or oval cross section. The products made are cords (technique), laces (for clothes), cables (electro technique) or ropes (heavy braids).
Flat braids are called laces or just flat braids.
Braids have special characteristic features. Standard braids have only a low lateral stability. Due to this property they can be sawn to other textiles without problems. On the other hand they can be made rigid and stiff with inserts and aftertreatments.
The load-bearing capacity of braided products is much more higher as of products made with other techniques.
Because of the special properties, braids can be found (often hidden) in many different applications. Some examples: Clothes and shoes, candle wicks, sash cords, water ski ropes, mountaineering ropes, yachting ropes, parachute lines, fishing nets, mooring lines, medical applications such as catheters or dental floss, overbraided high-pressure tubes, ground cables or harnesses.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
This exhibit contains thirty-two works from the studios of two grand masters of the art of Suzhou embroidery, which uses a hand-to-hand technique, in which an embroiderer places a hand on one side of the frame and another on the other side, working a needle back and forth and applying stitches in layers to create highly reflective fields of color and provide lifelike qualities to the subjects, whether landscapes, flowers or animals.
Suzhou embroidery has a long history exceeding 2000 years。During the Song Dynasty (960-1279), Emperor Huizong had encouraged embroiderers to work with artists and calligraphers to copy their art onto silk fabric.Suzhou embroidery, also called Su embroidery, is one of the four traditional Chinese embroidery styles.The great skill is passed down by word of mouth and from hand to hand.Suzhou artistsare are able to use more than 40 needlework and a 1,000 different types of threads to make flowers,birds,animals and even gardens on a piece of cloth. The Suzhou embroidery is refined and exquisite,best-known work being an embroidered cat with bright eyes and fluffy hair looking vivid and lifelike,just like the tiger above.
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Step 1: Hold crochet hook in right hand and make a slip knot on hook.
Step 2: Bring yarn over hook from back to front and grab it with hook.
Step 3: Draw hooked yarn through slip knot and onto hook. This makes one chain stitch.
Repeat Steps 2 and 3 in sequence 28 more times. You should have 29 chain stitches and one loop will remain on hook.
Step 4: Skip the first chain stitch.
Step 5: Insert hook into center of next chain stitch. Draw yarn through the chain stitch and up onto the hook. There are now 2 loops on hook.
Step 6: Bring yarn over hook from back to front, and draw it through both loops on hook. One loop remains on the hook, and you have just made one single crochet stitch.
Repeat Steps 5 and 6 in each of the remaining 27 chains--be sure to work in the very last chain. You have now completed one row of single crochet. Measure your work; it should be about 7" wide. If it is too wide, try again with fewer beginning chains. If it is too narrow, try again with more beginning chains.
Step 7: At the end of the row, make one chain stitch, then turn the work counter-clockwise, leaving the hook in the chain.Now you can begin another row, working into the stitches of the previous row.
Step 8: Make one single crochet stitch in first stitch and in each remaining stitch of the previous row. Be sure to work into the last stitch. Chain 1, turn.
Repeat Step 8 until the block measures 9" long.
Finishing: Cut the yarn from the skein, leaving a 6" end. Draw the hook straight up, bringing the yarn through the remaining loop on the hook.